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Building a skateboard from parts is easier than most people expect. You end up with a setup you've chosen yourself, you understand how it all fits together, and when something wears out, you can replace that one part rather than scrapping the whole board.
This guide takes you through every step: what you need, how to put it together, and the mistakes that catch first-timers out.
A skateboard has six main components. Here's what each one does:
You may also want riser pads, thin rubber or plastic pads that sit between the truck baseplate and the deck. If you're running larger or softer wheels, risers help prevent wheel bite, where the wheel clips the underside of the deck during a sharp turn.
You'll need a Phillips screwdriver, a socket wrench (usually 1/2 inch), and depending on your hardware, an Allen key (3/16 inch or 1/8 inch).
A dedicated skate tool combines all of these in one and is worth having, not just for the build, but for adjustments whenever something feels off. Most skaters keep one in their bag.
For grip tape, a craft knife or Stanley knife is useful for trimming the edges cleanly.
Flip your deck over so the graphic faces up. Peel the backing off the grip tape and apply it from one end to the other, pressing it flat as you go to avoid bubbles. Once it's stuck down, run a screwdriver edge around the rim of the deck to score the overhang, then trim it with a craft knife. Rub the offcuts along the edges to help the grip tape bond neatly.
For more detail on this part, see the how to apply grip tape guide.
Flip the deck over so the grip tape faces down. Push the hardware bolts through the eight mounting holes, four at each end. The bolts go through the grip tape you've just applied. Place the truck baseplate onto the bolts from underneath and hand-tighten the nuts, then tighten fully with your skate tool. Snug is right. Over-tightening can crack the deck.
Bearings don't come pre-fitted inside wheels, you press them in yourself. Place one bearing on the truck axle, push the wheel down onto it, then flip the wheel and repeat for the second bearing. Two bearings per wheel, eight in total.
A bearing press tool makes this easier, but the truck axle works fine as a pressing surface if you apply steady, even pressure.
Slide each wheel (both bearings now seated) onto the truck axle. Add the speed ring, a small washer that goes between the bearing and the axle nut, then thread on the axle nut. Tighten until there's no side-wobble, but the wheel still spins freely. A well-fitted wheel spins smoothly and gradually slows to a stop. If it stops dead quickly, the nut is too tight.
This is where most first builds go wrong. Trucks that are too narrow or too wide handle poorly. The measurement to match is the axle (hanger) width:
| Deck width | Recommended truck size |
|---|---|
| 7.75 inch | 5.0 inch (approx. 129mm) |
| 8.0 inch | 5.25 inch (approx. 139mm) |
| 8.25 inch | 5.5 inch (approx. 149mm) |
| 8.5 inch | 5.75 inch (approx. 159mm) |
Different brands use different naming conventions, so check the 'for deck size' information on each product page if you're unsure. The truck sizing guide has a full breakdown.
Wheels are measured by diameter in millimetres. Common sizes for street and park skating are 50-54mm. Larger wheels, 56mm and up, roll faster and smooth out rough ground, but add a bit of weight to the setup.
For hardness, 99-101a is the standard range for skateparks and smooth street surfaces. If you're skating rough tarmac or want a more comfortable ride, softer wheels in the 78a-87a range are worth looking at. Check the soft wheels for rough ground selection.
For bearings, mid-range options are fine for most skaters. Higher-end bearings may spin longer out of the box, but technique and keeping your wheels clean make more difference than the rating on the packaging.
It depends on what you want.
Building your own means you pick every component and you'll understand the setup properly when something needs adjusting. It's satisfying to ride something you've put together yourself.
That said, buying individual parts always costs more than a comparable complete, and it takes more time to cross-reference sizes. For a first board, particularly for younger riders or anyone who just wants to get skating quickly, complete skateboards are the simpler and cheaper option.
If you're ready to build but want to make it easier, custom skateboard builder kits let you choose your deck, trucks, and wheels in one place. All skateboard parts are available separately too if you'd rather put together your own shortlist.
For a first build, allow about an hour. Most of that time goes on applying grip tape neatly and pressing in bearings. Once you've done it once, a full build takes 20-30 minutes.
No. You press them in yourself. Bearings are sold separately from wheels, and you fit two into each wheel using the truck axle as a pressing surface. It's straightforward once you know it's a step.
Match the truck axle width to your deck width as closely as possible. For an 8.0 inch deck, 5.25 inch trucks are the standard match. See the truck sizing guide for a full breakdown.
You need proper skateboard hardware. Standard bolts from a hardware shop won't have the right thread pitch or head size. Skateboard hardware comes in sets of eight bolts and eight nuts, and bolt length should account for whether you're running risers or not.
You can manage with a screwdriver and the right socket wrench, but a skate tool makes things noticeably easier because it combines everything. Most skaters carry one for on-the-go adjustments.
A complete is almost always cheaper. Buying parts individually adds up quickly. Building your own makes sense when you have a specific setup in mind, a particular deck width, a specific truck brand, a chosen wheel hardness, not as a way to save money.
