How to Build a Skateboard: Step-by-Step Guide

Building your own skateboard means picking every part yourself: deck, trucks, wheels, bearings and hardware, then putting it together in the right order. Once you've got the parts in front of you, it takes about half an hour. What you end up with is a board built exactly how you want to ride it, not a factory spec.

This guide walks through the full build, why the order matters, and where to find the right parts along the way.

Why build your own skateboard instead of buying a complete

A complete skateboard is still the fastest way to start skateboarding, and for most beginners it's the sensible choice. But building your own has real advantages once you have an idea of what you want.

You choose every part: deck shape, truck brand, wheel hardness, bearing quality, all your call. You can mix and match too. Want a wider deck with lighter trucks and softer wheels for cruising? Building your own is the only way to get that exact combination. Once you've built a board yourself, adjusting or replacing parts later stops feeling like guesswork, because you already know what's under your feet. And it's cheaper long term: if a deck snaps, you only replace the deck, not the whole board.

The trade-off is cost and time. Buying parts separately is usually pricier than a complete, and you need the right tools. If you're completely new to skateboarding, it's worth reading up on complete skateboards first to get a feel for sizing before committing to a custom build.

What you'll need: tools and parts checklist

Parts: - A skateboard deck - Skateboard trucks (a pair) - Skateboard wheels (a set of four) - Skateboard bearings, eight in total, two per wheel - Grip tape - Skateboard hardware, mounting bolts, and riser pads if you want them

If choosing every part individually feels like a lot, custom skateboard builder kits let you pick a deck and have the rest matched for you, which takes the guesswork out of sizing.

Tools: - A skate tool (a T-tool covers truck nuts, kingpin nuts and bearing removal in one tool, so you're not hunting for separate spanners) - A grip tape squeegee, or an old card - A sharp blade or grip tape cutter - A screwdriver, if your bolts need one instead of an Allen key

A T-tool is worth buying even if you've already got spanners knocking about. It's sized specifically for skate hardware, so you're not hunting for the right socket every time you tighten a truck.

Step 1: Apply grip tape to your deck

Grip tape goes on first, before anything else touches the deck. Working on a flat, empty board means nothing is in the way, and you can trim the edges cleanly without cutting around mounted trucks.

1. Peel the backing and place the grip tape onto the deck, starting from one end.
2. Smooth it down from the centre outward with a squeegee or card, working out any air bubbles.
3. Run your blade along the edge of the deck to trim off the excess, following the deck's shape.
4. Sand or rub the edges lightly so they're not sharp underfoot.

For a fuller walkthrough with more detail on angles and avoiding bubbles, see our guide on how to apply grip tape to a skateboard deck.

Step 2: Mount the trucks

With grip tape done, flip the deck over. The truck holes are usually pre-drilled, but check they line up before you start.

1. If you're using riser pads, place them between the deck and the truck baseplate now.
2. Push your mounting bolts through the deck from the grip side.
3. Fit the truck baseplate underneath and thread on the locknuts.
4. Tighten in a criss-cross pattern rather than fully tightening one bolt at a time, so the baseplate sits flat.

Truck width should match your deck width, not just look about right. Too narrow and the board feels unstable; too wide and your wheels stick out past the edge. Check our skateboard trucks size guide to match truck size to deck width properly, since sizing names vary between brands.

Bolt length depends on whether you're using risers:

Step 3: Fit the bearings and wheels

Bearings sit inside the wheel, not on the axle directly, so they go into the wheel first.

1. Press a bearing into one side of the wheel, using the truck axle as a guide to line it up straight.
2. Flip the wheel and press a second bearing into the other side.
3. Push the wheel and bearings onto the truck axle.
4. Fit the washer and axle nut, and tighten until snug.

Do this for all four wheels. If a bearing feels like it's going in at an angle, stop and start again. Forcing it can damage the bearing shield.

Step 4: Tighten everything and check your setup

Once all four wheels are on, spin each one. It should spin freely for a few seconds without much wobble. If a wheel stops almost immediately, the axle nut is probably too tight, so back it off slightly.

Check the trucks are tightened evenly and the kingpin nut is snug enough to hold your turning feel without being rock solid. Give the deck a once-over for any grip tape edges that need trimming, and you're ready to ride.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Gripping the deck after mounting trucks. Always grip first, it's far easier to trim cleanly on a bare deck.
• Mismatching truck width to deck width. This is the most common sizing mistake, and it makes the board feel wrong even with good parts.
• Using the wrong bolt length. Too short and it won't grip properly through a riser; too long and it can catch on the ground when you turn hard.
• Overtightening the axle nut. Wheels need to spin freely, snug, not crushed.
• Forcing bearings in at an angle. This damages the bearing and shortens its life before you've even ridden the board.
• Skipping riser pads with big wheels. Larger wheels can rub on the deck without a riser, known as wheelbite, especially under hard turns.

Building a board vs buying a complete skateboard

If you already know roughly what you want, deck shape, truck feel, wheel hardness, building your own gets you exactly that setup. If you're still working out your preferences, a complete skateboard is the more sensible starting point, since it arrives ready to ride and takes the sizing decisions off your plate while you're learning. Plenty of riders start on a complete, then move to custom builds once they know what they like.

FAQs

What tools do I need to build a skateboard? A skate tool (ideally a T-tool), a grip tape squeegee or old card, a sharp blade for trimming grip tape, and a screwdriver if your hardware needs one. A T-tool covers most of the job on its own.

Is it cheaper to build a skateboard or buy a complete? Usually a complete works out cheaper, since parts are bundled and discounted as a set. Building your own tends to cost more but gives you full control over every part, which matters once you know what you want.

What size trucks do I need for my deck? Truck width should roughly match deck width. As a rough guide, an 8.0 inch deck usually pairs with 5.25 inch trucks, and an 8.25 inch deck with 5.5 inch trucks. Check the skateboard trucks size guide for the full breakdown, as sizing names vary between truck brands.

How long does it take to build a skateboard from scratch? Around 20 to 40 minutes once you have all the parts, longer the first time while you're getting used to the tools.

Do I need to buy risers when building a skateboard? Not always. Risers help prevent wheelbite, especially with larger or softer wheels, and can reduce vibration. If you're running standard-size wheels with no wheelbite issues, you can build without them.

Can beginners build their own skateboard? Yes, though it helps to have a rough idea of sizing first. If you're completely new to skateboarding, starting with a complete skateboard is often easier, then building your own once you know your preferences.

Ready to start your build? Browse skateboard decks to pick your base, or go straight to a custom skateboard builder kit if you'd rather have the parts matched for you.